I hadn't intended on going so long between posts, but I've been so caught up in Merlefest this year that I just haven't had the time. Between getting ready, being there, and riding out the good-music buzz I've had since, I haven't been able to sit down and write. My apologies, dear reader. You may rest assured that I missed you, too.
If you aren't familiar with it, Merlefest is a music festival held each April at Wilkes Community College in in Wilkesboro, N.C. It's held in the memory of Merle Watson, who died in a tractor accident in 1985. Merle was the son of American music icon Doc Watson, and he developed quite a reputation of his own while accompanying his father onstage. His friends, family, and fellow musicians got together in 1987 to honor him with a weekend concert, and it's been growing ever since. Merlefest was expected to draw more than 80,000 fans to Wilkesboro over four days.
Though I've known about it from reading guitar magazines for several years, this was only my second Merlefest. I hope to attend many more, because they have both been fantastic. Here are my highlights:
Thursday
Tim O'Brien -- I don't think there's a stringed instrument he can't play, though he stuck to mandolin for this set. He's the kind of guy you'd want to take lessons from, because you'd play a CD for him and he'd be able to break it down for you in about 10 minutes. He's a great player and a great songwriter, too. I was way overdue to own his newest CD, "Traveler," so I made the first of my many trips to the Merlefest Mall (huge merch tent) to get it.
Loretta Lynn -- Sharon really loves her "Van Lear Rose" CD, and we were both looking forward to this set. Unfortunately, she was stricken by allergies on the trip to Wilkesboro, and she was hoarse. She struggled through her hits, including "Fist City" and "Coal Miner's Daughter," and apologized repeatedly for not being able to hit the high notes. She only did two songs from "Van Lear Rose," and didn't even do all of "Portland, Oregon," so I'd have to say I was disappointed. On the other hand, how many times do you get to see Loretta Lynn? She's paid her dues, and she's more than entitled to an off night.
Friday
The Greencards -- I'd discovered this band (composed of two Australians and an Englishman who reside in Austin) on a Borders listening station a couple months ago. The sticker on the CD said it was the best bluegrass CD Robert Earl Keen had heard in the past 20 years. I wouldn't go that far, but I liked it enough to buy it. They were good live, too. The fiddler and mandolin player were particularly skilled players and the group harmonized well. Best of all, they brought copies of their new CD, which isn't scheduled for release until late June. At 18 bucks a pop, it was already shaping up like a long weekend at Merlefest Mall.
John Jorgenson -- This was another highly anticipated show for us. Sharon's also a big Django Reinhardt fan, and Jorgenson's newest CD of Reinhardt-inspired tunes is appropriately titled "Franco-American Swing." He was booked on the main stage, and he definitely channeled Reinhardt's spirit. As if being a monster gypsy jazz guitarist isn't enough, Jorgenson was equally skilled on the clarinet, which he played toward the end of the set.
The Tony Rice Unit -- Rice is one of my favorite guitarists, so I was disappointed when a scheduling conflict had kept him from reaching the festival in time for his set on Thursday. He more than made up for it on Friday. Out at the Hillside Stage, which is the longest walk from the main stage, he seemed to be whimsically making up the setlist as he went along. He chose tunes "in the spirit of [Jerry] Garcia" ("Shady Grove") and "in the spirit of Clarence White" ("I Am A Pilgrim"). He also dedicated an instrumental version of Tom Paxton's "Last Thing On My Mind" to fiddler Vassar Clements, who has been diagnosed with lung cancer and is very ill. Every time I see Rice play, I can't help but think that no matter how many guitar players I see in my lifetime he will always be one of the best. Only a few come along every generation, and he's definitely one of them.
Hayes Carll -- The latest hot Texas singer/songwriter, by way of Arkansas. He's definitely got the between-song banter down, dryly introducing songs with statements such as "before I became an international folk icon ..." I didn't know much about Carll before the festival except for one article I'd read in No Depression. I noted that he'd co-written songs with Guy Clark and Ray Wylie Hubbard. Their endorsement, and the few songs I heard, were enough to warrant leaving more of my hard-earned dough at Merlefest Mall.
The Duhks -- Part of a real surge in old-time Americana music going on right now, even though they're Canadian. They're getting a lot of buzz, but I think they'll outlive the hype. Their style is an energetic blend of string band, gospel, bluegrass, folk and even some Latin-inspired percussion. I really like traditional bluegrass, but it's nice to see a band successfully push the envelope and still maintain a largely acoustic presentation. I'd be willing to bet that one or two albums from now they're going to do something fantastic.
Jerry Douglas -- I have to admit that I get a little bothered by Douglas getting top billing when he plays with Alison Krauss (Alison Krauss and Union Station featuring Jerry Douglas), but my Merlefest buddy Derek asked me during this set in which Douglas led his own band if I could think of a better Dobro player. I've had a week to think about it, and I still can't.
Saturday
John Jorgenson -- Sharon didn't go to the festival on Friday, so we made sure to get over to The Pit to catch Jorgenson's set on Saturday morning. His session was titled "The Music of Django Reinhardt," and we found the small auditorium packed when we got there. It was so crowded that we had to stand in the doorway. It was worth all 45 minutes of neck strain trying to get a better look at what he was doing. Based on this set, I can only imagine how great it must have been to see Reinhardt play.
King Wilkie -- I picked up their CD a while back, because any traditional bluegrass band that names itself after Bill Monroe's favorite horse is OK with me. These guys are all young, but they're an old-school band -- sport coats on stage, playing around one microphone, etc. The future of bluegrass appears to be in good hands.
Del McCoury Band -- If they're lucky, this is what King Wilkie will become. This is the epitome of a bluegrass band. They can play the hell out of their instruments, and Del McCoury is a fantastic singer. I wish that I was going to have Del's fantastic head of hair when I was his age (66).
The Tony Rice Unit -- They were fantastic at Hillside. For this performance, at the indoor Walker Center, I was lucky enough to sit in the front row. Rice is always great, but his band is great too. Watching them work is watching like a great jazz band interact. A wink or a nod or a tap of the foot can send the tune in a different direction when all the musicians are feeling it. Rickie Simpkins (mandolin) and Bryn Bright (bass) are tremendous players, and second guitarist Wyatt Rice (Tony's brother) is pretty damn good, too.
The Chieftans (with special guests Jerry Douglas, Del McCoury, Ricky Skaggs, Earl Scruggs) -- They had even more special guests who helped them out on their "Down the Old Plank Road" album, but these are the ones that stand out in my mind. You don't need me to tell you how great The Chieftans are. But I think maybe a lot of the people at the festival weren't real familiar with them. I don't know if it was the special guests or how well they play, but they went over big on Saturday and again on Sunday, when they were joined by Bela Fleck, Tim O'Brien, Buddy Miller and Allison Moorer.
Rodney Crowell -- I had been looking forward to Rodney Crowell all weekend, but I spent his whole set in line waiting to get Sam Bush's autograph. Fortunately, the autograph line was near the main stage and Crowell's band was LOUD. The songs were great, and he has really come in to his own as one of the elder statesmen among singer/songwriters in the past couple years.
Sunday
Doc Watson and the Nashville Bluegrass Band -- For the second straight year, my Sunday morning started with Doc and the band doing a set of gospel bluegrass. The term "national treasure" tends to be overused, but in this case it applies. If church meant listening to Doc Watson pick gospel, my ass would be in the pew every Sunday.
BR549 -- The hardest-working honky-tonk band in show business. They played the main stage at 11 a.m., which is a little early for these guys. They were up to the task. But they really hit their stride at their 1 p.m. set in the dance tent. They tore through a set of originals and honky-tonk standards that even had me semi-dancing. You know the band is rocking when that happens. As one request was shouted out, singer/guitarist Chuck Mead reminded the crowd that the band came up on Nashville's Lower Broadway playing for tips, and that "there's a difference between a request and a suggestion," while rubbing his fingers together in the universal sign for cash-ola. I took the bait, and walked up to the front and handed Mead $10 to play "Seven Nights To Rock." They not only played it, but it was the hottest version I've ever heard, including an encore at a Bruce Springsteen show. Multi-instrumentalist Don Herron, who my music-bud Stacy likes to call BR549's "secret weapon," was on fire for the whole set. During their last number, which eludes me right now, he rocked the steel guitar over on one side while soloing. Then he laid it over on the stage monitors and soloed some more. Then, as the crowd was whipped into a frenzy, he grabbed the leg of the steel guitar stand and held it triumphantly over his head, breaking the cord. They're even better after the sun goes down. Trust me, folks; if you like honky-tonk music or you just like to have a good time, go see BR549 if they come through your town. You will get your money's worth. That tenner was the best money I spent all weekend, with none of the harsh side effects brought on by the many Italian sausages I purchased.
Buddy Miller -- Miller's "Universal United House of Prayer" was one of my favorite albums last year, and the songs had just as much soul live.
Alison Krauss and Union Station -- There's not much you can say about this band that hasn't been said already. The band plays perfectly, and Krauss has a perfect voice. Everything she sings sounds great, though I maintain that she'd struggle with Slayer's "Reign In Blood." Having such a great headliner for Sunday afternoon really brought a lot of fans out, and kept them there up until the very end.
Doc Watson and Bill Mathis closed the festival with the traditional "Tribute to Merle," which is based on "Will The Circle Be Unbroken," and so ended a great weekend of great music. I can only imagine what next year's lineup will be like, although I'm really looking forward to seeing what they put together for the 20th Merlefest in 2007.
As great as all the music was, it also was great to catch up with friends and be with people who love great music. Sharon and I caught up with Derek, Carlton, Jenny and Larry from last year. We even had a Merlefest newbie, Karen, in our group. It was especially nice to catch up with Stacy and Geoffrey, who we've missed in the worst way since they moved to Japan in September. The music always sounds better when you're among friends.